Scotland has a way of making you feel small – in the best possible way. Between its misty lochs, crumbling castles, and impossibly green hills, it feels like the world slows down a little here. A week isn’t nearly enough to see it all, but it’s enough to fall under its spell. And if you’ve got a few extra days, a quick dip into northern England is the perfect encore.

Day 1–2: Edinburgh – The Grand Introduction

I always tell first-timers to start in Edinburgh. There’s no better place to adjust your internal clock and let the country introduce itself properly. You can walk almost everywhere: up the Royal Mile, from Edinburgh Castle at the top to Holyrood Palace at the bottom, with centuries of stories between them.

Grab a scone or a “full Scottish” breakfast before tackling the climb up Arthur’s Seat. It looks steep, but the views over the city are worth every step and the hike is very manageable. In the evening, find a cozy whisky bar (there’s one on practically every corner) and raise a glass to the fact that you’re here. Bonus points if you brave one of the city’s ghost tours afterward – talk about creepy. Edinburgh wears its history proudly, and sometimes a little eerily.

Day 3–4: Into the Highlands – Where the Road Feels Endless

Leaving Edinburgh behind always feels a bit like stepping out of a storybook and into another. Once you’re north of Perth, the scenery starts to change as rolling hills become rugged peaks, and sheep outnumber people ten to one.

I stopped in Pitlochry for a distillery visit (Dalwhinnie, if you’re keeping track), then continued toward Inverness, the unofficial capital of the Highlands. You can easily fill a day here between Culloden Battlefield and a cruise on Loch Ness – where I heard numerous theories on what Nessie really is. From there, wind westward toward the Isle of Skye, crossing the bridge near Eilean Donan Castle, which might just be the most photogenic castle on Earth.

Skye feels wild and ancient like it remembers a time before roads or electricity. The Old Man of Storr and Quiraing look straight out of a fantasy movie (and often are as you may recognize). If you can, stay a night or two; waking up to that landscape is unforgettable.

Day 5–6: Glencoe and the West Coast — Scotland at Its Most Soulful

From Skye, head south through Fort William, where the Jacobite Steam Train chugs across the Glenfinnan Viaduct – yes, the one from Harry Potter. Then comes Glencoe, and this is where Scotland really hits you in the chest. Towering cliffs, moody skies, waterfalls tumbling down every slope – it’s impossible not to feel something. Our guide regaled us with stories of Robert the Bruce and William Wallace along with the “Massacre of Glencoe.”

I stayed at a small inn tucked in the valley and hiked one of the shorter trails before dinner. The air felt so clean it almost hurt to breathe it in. When you’re ready to rejoin civilization, Oban makes a lovely stop, especially if you enjoy seafood, sea views, and the smell of whisky in the air.

Day 7: Stirling or the Road South

If you’re looping back toward Edinburgh, Stirling is worth a pause. The castle here is every bit as impressive as Edinburgh’s, and you can almost see William Wallace standing defiant over the bridge below. The sight of the famous Battle of Stirling Bridge over 700 years ago.

If your journey ends in Glasgow, you’ll find a city with plenty of grit and heart featuring street art, live music, and locals who love to talk. It’s an easy place to like.

Bonus Days: A Taste of Northern England

If you’ve got a couple more days before heading home, cross the border into Northumberland, one of England’s best-kept secrets. The beaches stretch for miles, the castles (like Alnwick and Bamburgh) are straight out of legend, and the Holy Island of Lindisfarne feels frozen in time.

You can end the trip in York, walking the medieval Shambles and sipping tea in the shadow of York Minster. It’s the perfect soft landing after Scotland’s wildness.

Travel tips

• When to visit: Late spring and early autumn are magic—long daylight hours, fewer midges (the most annoying insects of all time), and plenty of festivals.
• Getting around: Rent a car if you can; half the fun is pulling over every few miles for another photo. If you are traveling solo, consider joining a tour or two.
• Budget tip: Scotland isn’t cheap, but outside the big cities, guesthouses and B&Bs offer charm and value.
• Essential experiences: A dram by a peat fire, a coastal walk in the rain, and a friendly chat with a local who insists you “try the shortbread.”

By the time you leave, you’ll understand something simple: Scotland isn’t just a place you visit. It’s one that stays with you.

Yup, that's haggis. Better than I expected.